Gardens

Site Map

Cottage Map

HERB GARDEN

This was laid out in 1986 with a mixture of culinary herbs & mainly cottage garden plants [ details on request]. There are also 3 dwarf apples trees [ Granny Smith, Sunset & Laxton Superb] and a small Bay tree.
It is situated just outside the kitchen door in accordance with Permaculture principles & being thus south of the cottage is in full sun most of the day.
Originally I planted a wisteria, a climbing rose & a clematis against this south facing wall of the cottage and they are so beautiful that I am reluctant to remove them. But in January 2011, I managed to make room for a fan-trained Early Moorpark Apricot because the 2 free-standing apricot trees in FortDucks orchard were not fruiting well. It is cropping well and has encouraged me to plant more elsewhere, see below. Another clematis died recently and I replaced it with a passion fruit which I’m hoping will bear edible fruit.

My small cottage garden extends around to the east & north of the cottage and includes a productive Alpine Strawberry area & a large Quince tree but is otherwise mainly ornamental. It does support wildlife including plenty of toads and I nearly put my bare hand on a grass snake last year – no problem, once I was sure it was not an adder!

I built a small conservatory onto the south wall of the cottage which helps conserve heat in both . It is furnished with a small table & four  chairs so that one can sit there or alternatively one can carry the chairs onto the terrace just outside where there is a large table for meals in fine weather .  It also houses a productive grapevine [ Black Hamburg ] and usually houses my lemon trees in winter, although if the weather is very harsh I carry them inside the house. In summer the lemons stand on the terrace against the south-facing wall of the conservatory and produce the only citrus fruit I use.

VEGETABLE GARDEN

Adjacent to the flower garden & thus still near the kitchen door is the main vegetable garden, protected from the wind which can whistle up the valley by native hedges and surrounded by post & rail fencing up which I’m growing fan-trained apricots, quinces and an apple. This fencing replaced yew hedging which was visually attractive but which required a lot of maintenance, harboured huge numbers of slugs & snails & depleted the adjoining vegetables of nutrients.

I grow  perennials such as Globe artichokes ; Sorrel ; Babbington leeks ; Jerusalem artichokes ; Horseradish; Welsh onions & Rhubarb plus annual summer & winter vegetables.

I keep a diary of all the fruit & vegetables that I grow & can supple details on request.

In the bee orchard, just beside the wicket gate into the vegetable garden, are the two compost heaps, conveniently situated for receiving stuff barrowed from these gardens.

GREENHOUSE AREA

There is an excellent, sheltered growing area enclosed on two sides by the eastern wall of the Cold-store and the south-facing wall of the stable.
Against this white-painted stable wall, I built a small greenhouse which harbours a very fruitful fan-trained Peregrine Peach & is used to raise seedlings, for forcing early strawberries & potatoes and for the cultivation of tomatoes, cucumbers & melons.

The south & west walls of the cold store are built against the solid earth and one metre beyond its east wall a second wall was constructed & the space between filled with soil for insulation. I now top-dress this area with copious horse manure and it usually grows excellent Spaghetti marrows.

An area above the cold-store roof , treated in the same way, is the courgette patch.

Although I am on heavy clay, half a mile away they are quarrying sand & gravel and kindly gave me some of their spoil to cover the rest of the flat roof of the cold store. This sandy soil has made an ideal bed for carrots, garlic & similar vegetables which prefer a light & well-drained soil – although I am still picking out large stones!

I tried growing asparagus here before discovering that it addition to requiring well-drained soil it demands a lot of root space. It never did well so I’ve now moved the crowns to the vegetable patch although I’m afraid it will not like the heavy clay either!

I shovel horse muck through the door in the adjacent field shelter into two small muck- heaps, built beside the cold-store vegetable beds. It can rot down there ready to be used as needed in this area.The horses like to stand in the shelter whenever the weather is either very wet or very hot & so provide plenty of muck close to where I want to use it.

Beside the Greenhouse a Brown Turkey Fig & a Kiwi Solo are trained against the same south-facing stable wall. I get a reasonable crop of figs around September most years  & delicious Kiwi fruits ripen between mid-December & mid-January.

Around the corner of the stables, 4 gooseberry bushes are being trained up the east facing wall & usually fruit well [ a Hinomaki Red, a Martlet & 2 Invicta ].
I have a Phoenix grapevine growing over a pergola here, which is starting to crop really well.

FRUIT CAGES

Fort Ducks

The two fruit cages are sited inside Fort Ducks – the poultry enclosure – and the ducks eat the slugs so that I do not have a problem with the slugs eating the strawberries.
I do have a slug problem in the vegetable garden – perhaps this also should have been sited in Fort Ducks!

One fruit cage currently contains blackcurrants; red & white currants and strawberries. The other did contain autumn raspberries but this area unfortunately became riddled with bindweed. I therefore planted  a bed of autumn raspberries in the veg patch and am currently growing potatoes in the fruit cage to clear the soil.

ALLOTMENT AREA

Allotment Map

Near the front of my cottage is an Allotment which is being cultivated by the friend who helps with fencing, chain-sawing & similar tasks I cannot do. He also has an incubator & hatches out chicks & ducklings for me to rear in the stables.

Just below this  he has built me a large muck pile. This holds the overflow of horse-muck from the stables which is not put directly onto the gardens. I bed my horses on shredded cardboard as it is easier to handle than straw or wood-shavings & much better for the gardens. Contrary to popular belief, I find there is seldom any need for it to be “well-rotted” first although I would not use it on the flower beds]: I put it on as a mulch in the autumn & dig it in, if necessary, in late winter or early spring after the frosts have broken it down.
I always plant my Pumpkin seedlings directly into the main muck pile in early summer as the rising warmth of the rotting muck & its moisture retaining properties mean that they yield good crops with minimal, if any, attention.

The muck pile is also conveniently sited for friends who want some of the well-rotted product after the pumpkins have been harvested.

Between the muck pile & Underton Lane [ the public road ], I have planted Tayberries & Japanese Wineberries and a Merryweather  Damson. There was also room to plant one big old-fashioned pear tree & I have put in a Catillac on Pyrus Communis rootstock. I’ve also planted a line of hazel & similar small native trees to screen me from the Leylandii hedge cultivated by my otherwise delightful neighbours in the bungalow.

LAVENDER FIELD

Lavender Field

 

In December 2014, I  purchased a further 5 acres across the lane from my existing land. This was divided into three small fields by wire fences. To hide these fences & for the benefit of the wildlife, I’ve planted a screen of shrubs – mostly hazel with some field & dog roses, viburnum lantana & opulis,  buckthorn & alder buckthorn and native honeysuckle – one plant per meter, this being cheaper to establish & maintain than a conventional hedge.

I’m farming two of these fields while the third has become “the Lavender field” because two friends are cultivating lavender on most of it – see website on links page

 

Above the lavender beds, I’ve built a hay-barn, screened from the road by a copse of 24 silver birch. Water off its roof flows into two storage containers before being used to water the lavender cuttings and other plants that my friends propagate in their small adjacent greenhouse.

Another friend has erected a poly-tunnel and is growing garden plants that are particularly good for bees & butterflies – see website on links page

GROWING FOOD

I would like to try growing some of the more unusual food plants that I have read about, mainly in Permaculture publications, or heard about on radio programmes like Gardeners Question Time.

And I want to try other alternatives to buying seeds [often F1 hybrids] each year. So far “Trail of Tears” beans & Yacon from the Real Seed Company has been a great success.

I would also like to try producing more of my own fertilisers instead of buying Maxicrop and Blood, Bone & Fish – probably neither are sourced by environmentally friendly methods. I am establishing Comfrey under some of the fruit trees & use horse muck both solid & dissolved in water as a liquid feed.